Hipster Chef’s Playful Riff On The McRib

The city’s best new “gefilte” fish isn’t at a Kosher deli. It’s at a Cantonese-American restaurant in Brooklyn where some dishes taste more Italian than Chinese. Is New York a fun place to eat, or what?

Bonnie’s, at 398 Manhattan Ave. in Williamsburg, is 2022’s “It place” for fun fusion with its unique takes on dishes from cacio e pepe to McDonald’s McRib. Named for Bay Ridge-born chef Calvin Eng’s mom, it’s been one of the hardest places to get into since it opened in December.

Know this: Bonnie’s (not to be confused with unrelated Bonnie’s Grill in Park Slope) can be as loud as the nearby BQE. A raucous front bar might remind you of a sports bar with more stylish clientele. A red exit sign’s the closest thing to decor in a spare white room.

But its mere 40 seats are worth fighting for.

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